In a way this walk dovetails nicely with the one a
couple of weeks ago. That walk took us on a patrol around the Flamborough
Headland, near the Roman signal station. This walk recreates part of the march
inland on the road that led from the coast to Derventio - the Roman fort at
modern-day Malton. While the coast walk was done in full armour - ready for
imminent battle, this walk was purely an exploration of how easy or hard it was
to travel long distances along Roman roads and camp after the march. I don't
know, were we skirmishes, scouts, messengers? We carried a tent and food and
gear to cook on for at least three days - so armour and heavy weapons were out.
We all travelled light, skirmish shields, a spear, spiculum, some veruta (light
javelins), a Saxon fighting knife or two.
We set off from the Mallham Spout Hotel in
Goathland,
|
|
|
Now the heavy loads of blankets, cloaks, food,
wine, pots and pans, tent canvas, javelins, shields, deerskins etc. began to
drag on on us. We met the Roman road and after a rest, began the comfortable
tramp along it. It was now a modern minor road, but gave us a good impression
of a Roman military route march - 3 men abreast, keeping up good
conversation, trying to forget the pain of the straps digging deeper and deeper,
getting almost to the bone. At some point, someone would call a halt and
they would shift over the packs and shields to the other shoulder. The torture
could begin again on the left side now ...
|
|
|
Jamie handed out several leaflets to walkers who
were interested enough (or brave enough) to stop us and talk. I think John is
quite pleased that 6 ageing walrers in their 60s will soon be flocking to the
group! They took nice photos of us though!
We crossed a river via stepping stones and climbed
up again, to eventually meet the Roman road on Wheeldale Moor. The surface
remains, and it was great to tramp along it. I'd done so the year before with
snow on the ground (alone) but the urgency of our march (always chasing
daylight) and keeping up with the others made this walk along the actual
remains stretch much more 'realistic'. The sun went in, hail the size of
footballs came crashing down and almost beat us to the ground. My shield was
strapped way too far down (thanks for that advice Jamie - shields need to be
ready for action, against Picts - and hailstones!), my hat was doing duty as a
padding for the knife-like straps of my baggage. I took the pain and carried on
splashing through the marsh that surrounded the wreckage of the Late Roman
road. How many soldiers had marched at speed across the road, in hail and rain
like us? The hobnails crunched satisfyingly on the paved surface.
(can you see the hail coming down???)
With hail gone, we forded a fast flowing river and
ate a wonderful lunch with wine, hardtack, smoked cheese and fish, fresh bread
and other treats in the sunshine on comfortable piles of dry pine needles
under cover of tree branches.
A brook bubbled past us. The best lunch of any walk
we have ever done. The white wine helped alot.From now on the weather
turned, we heard tremendous thunderclaps to the west and watched the black
clouds build up. We followed more minor roads that tracked the Roman road that
was leading us up to the Cawthorne camps (the Roman practice camps that
were used as training bases by local Roman legions - maybe thousands of young,
inexperienced and half-baked legionaries camped up here for the weekend over
the centuries ...). . .
We walked up a very steep minor road to get to the
top of the plateau. It was back-breaking and thoroughly exhausting work, with
stops every other tree! At the top the view back was magnificent, we jumped a
fence and considered camping in some abandoned woodland previously earmarked by
John as a good camp site. But it began to snow and we hiked through the woods
on top of the hill toward the carpark for the camps. Catherine and the boys
were waiting for us there - offering a lift to the pub and civilization. We had
brought everything we needed for at least a three day camp out on the hill (but
only one was planned!), from needle and thread to firestarting kit, food, wine,
pans, bedrolls, tents and poles, deerskins, axe, cups, and more ... but we
decided, with the offer of a pub versus a camping experience which we thought
we had already tried on the Hadrian's Wall Walk, to go for PUB! A great end to
a fast-paced hard-driven scenic march along Roman roads and foot paths, through
forest, across
moorland, down ravines and up a very steep hill
What did I learn? Where do you wear your cloak?
UNder you straps and equipment? Or ontop - never satisfactorily resolved that,
but when you have to take kit off to reload it or for a rest, it helps if the
cloak is under it all. And straps hurt. Crippling pain builds up after an hour
or so and you have to switch shoulders. My feet were fine, my hand-made boots
stayed together despite getting thoroughly sodden on the Roman road on
Wheeldale Moor. That was a major improvement.The thing that gets you is - stuff
falls apart so easily, no wonder we find so many strap ends, brooches,
buckles etc. These things fall off! The camaraderie was great and kept me
going, but I missed Andy and Sarah on this walk, and John Brayshaw (he could
have carried the tent canvas!). Sadly Stephen Kenwright was ill and missed
the walk, He would have loved it, marching the legionaries footsteps (and
carrying the authentic tent canvas if John B refused!!).
A great walk, 10-11 miles in all, through moorland,
forest, gorges and snow and hail.
After walking up Scafell Pike in January, doing 10
miles of
Paul/Fortunatus